Impact Factor: 1.1

Open Access Published since October 19, 2012

AUTEX Research Journal

The Journal of Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

ISSN: 2300-0929

Editor-in-chief: Raul Fangueiro

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About this journal

AUTEX Research Journal is published by De Gruyter on behalf of the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX)

Objective

The AUTEX Research Journal (AUT) is a leading open access, peer reviewed scientific journal dedicated to textile science and technology. AUT disseminates high-quality scientific knowledge related to textile-based materials and products, including topics like fibers, fibrous structures, functionalization, design, and manufacturing. Due to their unique properties and behaviour, fiber-based materials, in general, have substantially enlarged their range of applications in areas like health care and well-being, aeronautics and aerospace, defence, architecture, building and sports. In fact, the possibility of tuning their properties from nano to macro scale to obtain multifunctional and smart textiles is opening new opportunities to develop advanced solutions, traditional and non-traditional applications.

Topics

AUTEX Research Journal accepts high level scientific contributions on the following topics:

Advanced Fibres and Materials
Innovative Functional Textiles
Technical Textiles, Composites and Membranes
Protective Textiles
Medical Textiles, Tissue Engineering, Implants
Smart, Interactive and Multifunctional Textiles
Textile Processing,
Innovative Textile Structures
Nanotechnology, Nanotextiles, Electrospinning
Biopolymers and Biotechnology
Surface Functionalization and Coating
Textile and Clothing Machinery
Textile Testing, Measuring Technology
CAD/CAE-Technology, Mass Customisation
Modelling and Simulation
Comfort Science
Ecological and Environmental Textiles, Recycling and Life Cycle Analysis

Article Formats

We welcome submission of original research articles and invited review articles.

Your Benefits

One of the few journals dealing with textiles research at a global level
Clear review and publishing procedure
Open Access publication, ensuring widest possible dissemination of your research
Discounted APCs for AUTEX Association members
Authorized journal of AUTEX – The Association of Universities for Textiles

History

AUTEX Research Journal was previously published by Sciendo.

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Supplementary Materials

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External Links

Volume 24 (2024)

Issue 1

Volume 23 (2023)

Volume 22 (2022)

Volume 21 (2021)

Volume 20 (2020)

Volume 19 (2019)

Volume 18 (2018)

Volume 17 (2017)

Volume 16 (2016)

Volume 15 (2015)

Volume 14 (2014)

Volume 13 (2013)

Volume 12 (2012)

Volume 11 (2011)

Volume 10 (2010)

Volume 9 (2009)

Volume 8 (2008)

Volume 7 (2007)

Volume 6 (2006)

Volume 5 (2005)

Volume 4 (2004)

Volume 3 (2003)

Volume 2 (2002)

Volume 1 (2000)

Journal Impact Factor	1.1	2022, Journal Citation Reports (Clarivate, 2023)
5-year Journal Impact Factor	1.4	2022, Journal Citation Reports (Clarivate, 2023)
Journal Citation Indicator	0.44	2022, Journal Citation Reports (Clarivate, 2023)
CiteScore	2.6	2022, Scopus (Elsevier B.V., 2023)
SCImago Journal Rank	0.305	2022, SJR (Scimago Lab, 2023; Data Source: Scopus)
Source Normalized Impact per Paper	1.098	2022, CWTS Journal Indicators (CWTS B.V., 2023; Data Source: Scopus)

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Submission
Please submit your manuscript via the AUTEX Research Journal Manuscript submission system:
https://www.editorialmanager.com/arj

Preparing your manuscript
Before submitting your manuscript, please ensure you have read the journals objectives to make sure that the topic of your contribution is relevant to this journal and that your article is formatted according to the Instructions for Authors document.

Please note

Before submitting your article please have a look at our Publication Ethics Statement
Do not submit work that has been submitted elsewhere or has been published previously
Manuscripts must be written in clear and concise English
If you have any general questions please visit our FAQ page for authors

We look forward to receiving your manuscript!

Open Access
AUTEX Research Journal is an Open Access Journal. Authors benefit from timely, detailed and critical peer review and rapid publication. All articles accepted for publication in the journal will be published under a CC-BY License.
Thanks to Open Access all articles are freely available worldwide. An Article Processing Charge will apply.
The current Article Processing Charge is €1500. First named authors affiliated with accredited institutional members of AUTEX are entitled to a discounted rate of €1000. For further information on Article Processing Charges and the journal’s waiver policy please see the AUT APC Guide.

Editorial

Editor-in-Chief
Raul Fangueiro, University of Minho, Portugal
E-Mail: rfangueiro@dem.uminho.pt

Associate Editors
Diana P. Ferreira, University of Minho, Portugal
Ilda Kazani, Polytechnic University of Tirana, Albania
Boris Mahltig, Hochschule Niederrhein, Germany
Maryam Naebe, Deakin University Australia
Pierre Ouagne, Université de Bretagne Sud, France
Danmei Sun, Heriot-Watt University, Scotland

Editorial Board
Ilze Baltina, Riga Technical University, Latvia
Mirela Blaga, IASI University, Romania
Lucía Capablanca Francés, Universitat Politècnica de València, Spain
Omar Cherkaoui, School of Textile and Clothing industries, Morroco
Ada Ferri, Politecnico di Torino, Italy
Recep Eren, Bursa Uludag University, Turkey
Jelka Geršak, University of Maribor, Slovenia
Amine Haj Taieb, The University of Sfax, Tunisia
Anica Hursa Sajatovic, University of Zagreb, Croatia
Nawar Kadi, University of Borås, Sweden
Olena Kyzymchuk, Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design, Ukraine
Daiva Mikučionienė, Kaunas University of Technology, Lithuania
Stelios Mitilineos, University of West Attica, Greece
Yasir Nawab, National Textile Univesity, Pakistan
Barbara Simončič, University of Ljubljana, Slovenia
Snezana Stankovic, University of Belgrade, Serbia
George Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, Scotland
Valentina Trovato, University of Bergamo, Italy
Peng Wang, University of Haute-Alsace, France
Xin Wang, RMIT University, Australia
Xungai Wang, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

Managing Editor
Małgorzata Komadowska, Poland
malgorzata.komadowska@degruyter.com

Assistant Managing Editor
Kumaran Rengaswamy
Assistant Managing Editor, Compuscript
AssistantManagingEditor@degruyter.com

Volume 24 Issue 1

January 2024

Open Access November 20, 2023

Characterization of viscoelastic properties of yarn materials: Dynamic mechanical analysis in the transversal direction

Karl Kopelmann, Mathis Bruns, Andreas Nocke, Chokri Cherif

Article number: 20230002

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Abstract

Warp knitting creates very challenging dynamics due to its high production speeds. On the one hand, this makes it method of choice for many products in various fields. On the other hand, not all materials are suitable for such high productivity. With the current generation of machines being limited to only achieve their maximum speed of around 4,400 min −1 with highly elastic yarns, it is desired to gain a deeper insight into yarn behavior in such highly dynamic environments. Among other influences, resonance effects gain high significance as they may result in high loads on the used materials; therefore, yarn breakages interrupt the production and decrease the quality of the product. To extend the material choice, especially high-performance fibers, for high productivity, a deep understanding of the intrinsic properties of the yarn is required. In particular, the viscoelastic properties are of importance. This study proposes a method to determine these characteristics using the dynamic mechanical analysis method. For the purpose of finding the damping in the transversal direction to the yarn axis, the variant of free oscillation is chosen. For the trials, a high-speed camera is suspended above a testing rig. On this rig, a yarn sample is clamped and then displaced from its rest position. The resulting oscillation is recorded and later extracted from the video. From the decrement of the maxima of the amplitude and corresponding time intervals, the damping factor is determined. It decreases with higher initial deflection. Summarised the developed trial setup proved suitable for the determination of the viscoelastic properties in transversal direction.

Open Access November 23, 2023

Analysis of omni-channel implementations that are preferred by consumers in clothing sector

Seher Kanat, Turan Atılgan

Article number: 20230003

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Abstract

The omni-channel strategy, which presents a continuous purchasing experience to consumers and which provides the full integration of different channels, promises the consumers an effortless, simple, and issueless buying process. In this context, this study aimed to analyze the consumer-preferred omni-channel implementations in clothing sector. At the same time, it also aimed to make suggestions, which are based on consumer desires, to clothing producers and marketers in the light of the obtained findings. An online survey is conducted to volunteer Turkish citizens, who are at the age of 18 or elder and who are the residents of Türkiye, in order to be able to obtain the data, which are used within the scope of this study. The relationships between omni-channel implementations are analyzed using statistical methods, such as exploratory factor analysis, t -test, and analysis of variance, on the basis of clothing sector. According to the obtained study results, Turkish consumers give great importance to omni-channel strategy and its elements. More specifically, they give great importance to the integration between physical and online channels, and they prefer a full information, customer services, and price integration between channels. The study results indicate that the consumers are aware of the advantages of omni-channel strategy and they demand these factors from enterprises, brands, and retailers. The study is detailed and comprehensive on the basis of both scope and used methods. All studies are designed on the basis of clothing sector, and all analyses and evaluations are actualized on this basis. In this context, this study differs and individuates from the other studies in the literature due to these aspects. This study both contributes to the deficiencies in sector’s marketing and retailing areas and to the fulfillment of gap within the literature.

Open Access November 23, 2023

Structural modeling and analysis of three-dimensional cross-linked braided preforms

Chengjie Du, Zhuo Meng, Jianhan Hong, Zhijun Sun, Shimin Liu, Rui Chen, Yize Sun

Article number: 20230004

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Abstract

Rotary braiding is widely used in the preparation of high-performance fiber composites. However, neither conventional rotary two-dimensional braiding nor rotary three-dimensional braiding can prepare three-dimensional preforms with low porosity and dense surface yarns. This article designs a three-dimensional cross-linked braiding equipment, describes the mechanism of carrier motion of three-dimensional cross-linked braiding, and obtains a numerical model of three-dimensional cross-linked braided preforms by establishing the spatial coordinate system of the braided chassis and using cubic B-spline curve fitting. The reasons for the large difference between the numerical model of preform and the real fabric are analyzed, and an optimization algorithm is proposed to make the fabric compact by gathering the yarn to the center of the fabric. The experimental samples are braided on a three-dimensional cross-linked braiding machine, and the reliability of the optimization algorithm is verified by comparing the yarn coordinates of the experimental samples with those of the optimized numerical model. The accurate establishment of the geometric model of the preform provides a solid foundation for carrying out the prediction of the mechanical properties of composite materials.

Open Access November 23, 2023

An experimental study of mechanical properties and comfortability of knitted imitation woven shirt fabrics

Kongwei Zhao, Shengbin Cao, Guangbiao Xu

Article number: 20230001

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Abstract

The weft knitted shirt fabric has good elasticity and comfortability, but it is difficult to achieve the formability of woven shirts. In this study, 30D XLANCE ® elastic fibers and 30D Lycra ® elastic fibers were used, which paired with 40S cotton and 75D/36F moisture-absorbing and quick-drying polyester DTY to develop the woven shirt fabrics on a 32 needle/25.4 mm single-sided circular machine. The results indicate that the 30D XLANCE ® knitted shirt fabric has undergone sufficient heat setting treatment, and its mechanical properties are close to those of the standard woven fabric, superior to 30D Lycra ® and 30D XLANCE ® without sufficient heat setting treatment fabrics. The ultraviolet resistance behavior of XLANCE ® fabrics is significantly better than that of Lycra ® fabrics. Meanwhile, the XLANCE ® fabrics after heat setting still maintain the excellent elasticity and resilience, breathability, moisture absorption, and quick drying performance, and the dimensional stability after washing is also very good. In addition, compared with spandex, XLANCE ® fabrics have the lower heat setting temperature, which is beneficial for reducing energy consumption and carbon emissions. It can be considered that XLANCE ® elastic fibers are the ideal raw materials for the knitted woven products.

Open Access December 9, 2023

Technology integration to promote circular economy transformation of the garment industry: a systematic literature review

Wang Yiyan, Norsaadah Zakaria

Article number: 20230006

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Abstract

This study was prompted by the unsustainable issues facing the garment industry and the trend toward digitalisation in the post-coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic era. COVID-19 substantially affected global trade, which caused significant garment industry stagnation due to embargoes and international restrictions. Consequently, the stagnation led to a significant inventory backlog and hindered product distribution, which compelled garment companies to turn to online commerce. A circular economy (CE) attempts to halt commodity flow and convert waste into resources; therefore, it can alleviate the substantial garment industry pollution and waste produced under a linear economy and maximise product life cycles. Industrial Revolution 4.0 incorporates technological innovation and information technology to transform the garment industry, which technologically enhances manufacturing intelligence and inspires garment industry transformation into a CE. This systematic literature review discusses the necessity of transforming the garment industry into a CE and the technological advantages and challenges to promoting sustainable garment industry development. The findings demonstrated that transforming the garment industry into a CE can not only resolve its environmental pollution and excess supply issues but can also accommodate new supply and demand requirements, such as market digitisation, consumer personalisation, and industry chain transparency. Finally, a technology integration initiative was proposed to promote garment industry transformation into a CE by digitising product development to achieve sustainable development.

Open Access December 9, 2023

Research on T-shirt-style design based on Kansei image using back-propagation neural networks

Han Xu, Ruoan Ren, Han Chen

Article number: 20230007

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Abstract

Users’ Kansei image preferences have become one of the most important factors influencing purchase decisions. However, defining Kansei image can be complex. To address this issue, researchers have widely applied back-propagation neural networks due to their capacity to handle extensive data, adaptively adjust weights and biases, conduct multi-class classification and regression predictions, and offer interpretability analysis, among other features. In this study, a clothing-style design model based on users’ Kansei image cognition is proposed, using collarless T-shirts as an example. Furthermore, the attributes of T-shirt patterns are quantified using parametric graphics principles, and a semantic scale system for emotions is established through user research. The quantified sample data and corresponding semantic scale scores are then used as inputs for training a back-propagation neural network algorithm. Consequently, a design model grounded in users’ Kansei image cognition is developed, resulting in five optimal clothing design forms across various Kansei image categories. Additionally, the styles are showcased through the Style 3D platform, and the design evaluation is presented using radar charts. The results demonstrate that the five female T-shirt designs generated by the model align with users’ style preferences based on Kansei image.

Open Access December 13, 2023

Research on She nationality clothing recognition based on color feature fusion with PSO-SVM

Xiaojun Ding, Tao Li, Jingyu Chen, Fengyuan Zou

Article number: 20230005

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Abstract

Although the color characteristics of She nationality clothing are slightly different, there are multiple similarities in shapes and textures. Therefore, it is difficult to effectively distinguish different branches of She nationality clothing. To address this problem, this article, taking into account color feature fusion, proposes a recognition method based on a hybrid algorithm of particle swarm optimization and support vector machine (PSO-SVM). First, the color histogram and color moment (CM) feature descriptors were extracted from the five branches of She nationality clothing, and the color feature distribution of each branch was obtained. Then, color feature fusion is performed through optimization and dimensionality reduction of principal components. Furthermore, PSO was introduced to independently optimize parameter combinations. Finally, the different branches of She nationality clothing were automatically recognized. The results demonstrated that the proposed method could effectively distinguish different branches of She nationality clothing. Compared with the recognition accuracy of approaches using single-color histogram and CM feature, the performance of our proposed method was increased by 5.25 and 6.44%, respectively. When the penalty parameter γ \gamma and kernel parameter δ 2 {\delta }^{2} of SVM were 123.29 and 1.16, respectively, the recognition accuracy of the model was the highest, reaching 98.67%. The proposed method could be a reference for the subdivision recognition of She nationality clothing.

Open Access December 13, 2023

Accuracy prediction of wearable flexible smart gloves

Yan Zhang, Hong Xie, Mark J. Lake

Article number: 20230008

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Abstract

This article aimed at providing a new biomechanical three-dimensional dynamic finite element model of the hand–glove combination for exploring the distribution of the overall continuous dynamic contact pressure of the hand with the flexible glove in the state of grabbing an object, and further predicting the accuracy of sensors of wearable smart gloves. The model was validated by garment pressure experiments at eight muscle points. The results showed that the pressure value measured with three flexible gloves was highly consistent with the finite element simulation value. Based on the model, the distribution of dynamic pressure between the soft tissue of the hand and the fabric in the process of flexing the fingers and grabbing external objects were predicted accurately and effectively, which indicated that the model with high accuracy could be applied to evaluate the accuracy of the pressure value collected by sensors of smart gloves. In addition, the model had been confirmed that it has a certain application value. The findings could help to provide a reference for dynamic continuous monitoring equipment or other intelligent wearable devices, and promote the development of the intelligent clothing industry in the future.

Open Access January 12, 2024

Preparation and performance of stainless steel fiber/Lyocell fiber-blended weft-knitted fabric

Taohai Yan, Yingzi Wu, Renzhi Li, Yongze Wu, Yajing Shi, Luming Huang, Zhi Chen

Article number: 20230009

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Abstract

Stainless steel fiber exhibits excellent flame retardancy and melting resistance, but it lacks thermal and moisture comfort. To compensate for these shortcomings, stainless steel fiber was blended with Lyocell fiber in ratios of 0/100, 10/90, 20/80, and 30/70%. The blended yarn was then formed into a single-sided plain stitch fabric of stainless steel fiber and finished with a phosphorus–nitrogen flame retardant. Next, the effects of the blending ratio on the fundamental properties, thermal and moisture comfort, and flame retardancy of the blended yarn and its fabric were studied. Considering these parameters alongside cost, the 10% stainless steel fiber-blended fabric was the optimal choice and showed potential applications for updating and upgrading welding service fabrics.

Open Access January 16, 2024

Development of an emotional response model for hospital gown design using structural equation modeling

Yu Zhao, Feng Zhou, Yan Zhao, Yunding Zou, Xixi Wei

Article number: 20230010

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Abstract

Apparel has the potential to influence the external expression of wearer’s emotional state and can even empower them, making patients’ hospital wearing a crucial factor in their emotional experience and medical treatment. This study aims to investigate the emotional factors that drive patients’ behavioral responses to hospital gowns using the pleasure–arousal–dominance (PAD) model. With the survey conduction and data analysis, the results identified that the color and silhouette of hospital gowns lead to the emotional experience of arousal, while the structure leads to the emotional experience of dominance, which in turn brings patients a high sense of pleasure and further affect their acceptance and willingness to continue wearing hospital gowns. Based on the results of the research, new hospital gowns were designed and validated, which further confirmed the relationship between the attributes of hospital gowns and emotions of patients. Thus, by extending the PAD model to the context of patients’ use of hospital gowns, this study provides designers with a basis for creating emotionally driven atmosphere factors in the development of hospital gowns for the Chinese market that improve acceptance and continuation of hospital gowns, making a valuable contribution to knowledge in this field.

Open Access January 20, 2024

Preparation and properties of stainless steel filament/pure cotton woven fabric

Taohai Yan, Yajing Shi, Jiankun Zheng, Luming Huang, Chaowang Lin, Zhi Chen

Article number: 20230011

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Abstract

The flame-retardant cotton fabric used for welding protective clothing in the market exhibits insufficient melt hole resistance. We evaluated the stainless steel filament fabric for flame retardancy and melt hole resistance and found that it lacked sufficient comfort. A stainless steel filament and a cotton yarn were plied and twisted together and then woven following a set of specifications. The fabric was finished with a flame retardant, and its performance and flame retardancy were determined. The results indicate that the twist direction during ply twisting affects the fabric performance. Relative to the pure cotton fabric, the stainless steel filament/cotton composite fabric exhibits reduced comfort properties, such as moisture permeability and air permeability, but the mechanical properties and flame retardancy are improved. Ply twisting a stainless steel filament and a pure cotton yarn with an S twist presents certain advantages in enhancing the comprehensive performance of the fabric and exhibits potential for advancements in welding protective clothing.

Open Access February 14, 2024

Facemask comfort enhancement with graphene oxide from recovered carbon waste tyres

Ungku Nur Ainaa Ungku Mohd Aziz, Nor Dalila Nor Affandi, Ahmad Mukifza Harun, Mohd Azizi Abdul Rahman, Liliana Indrie, Noor Najmi Bonnia

Article number: 20230013

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Abstract

Commercial disposable facemasks have lower breathability and may cause discomfort after hours of wearing them. Graphene oxide (GO) nanoparticles offer a significant opportunity to improve the breathability of facemask materials. Hence, the current study aimed to investigate the feasibility of incorporating GO in facemask materials. The GO was synthesized from recovered carbon of waste carbon tyre. In this study, two concentrations of GO (0.01 and 0.02%) were used to enhance the comfort properties of the polypropylene (PP) facemask fabric. The GO-coated PP facemask fabrics were characterized for scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive X-ray, and Raman spectroscopy. The comfort properties were determined using air permeability, water vapour permeability, and moisture management test. Raman analysis revealed distinctive peaks corresponding to GO at approximately 1,300 and 1,500 cm −1 . The GO displayed bumping pieces of particles and a textured surface, with a diameter ranging from 30 to 80 nm. The result of mercury porosimetry shows that the PP fabric coated with 0.02% of GO provided a higher pore diameter and porosity at approximately 21.31 µm and 82.79%, respectively. Due to its high pore diameter and porosity, the PP filter facemask fabric coated with 0.02% GO demonstrated enhanced air permeability, water vapour permeability, and moisture management. These results suggested that the sample possesses favourable breathability properties as compared to the sample without GO. By undertaking this study, GO synthesized from the waste carbon tyre was developed, which can enhance the breathability of fabric materials.

Open Access February 21, 2024

Use of enzymatic processes in the tanning of leather materials

Magdalena Lasoń-Rydel, Katarzyna Sieczyńska, Dorota Gendaszewska, Katarzyna Ławińska, Tomasz P. Olejnik

Article number: 20230012

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Abstract

The policy of sustainable development, the need to save natural environmental resources, and the use of waste as raw materials in new production processes allow the use of enzymes in many industries. Enzymatic tanning and chrome tanning are two different methods used in the leather industry to transform raw hides into a durable and usable material. Enzymatic tanning uses natural enzymes that are biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Additionally, enzymatic tanning requires less water and generates less waste than chrome tanning. Moreover, enzymatic tanning can result in softer and more flexible leather with better uniformity. Enzymes selectively break down collagen fibers, resulting in a more even tanning and a consistent leather product. The use of combined enzymatic technologies with non-obvious leather finishing methodologies in tanning is forced by European Union regulations limiting the use of hazardous substances and generating significant amounts of corrosive wastewater for the environment. However, tanning with enzymes is not a perfect process; therefore, this work presents the advantages and disadvantages of tanning with enzymes and describes new technological trends in the tanning industry.

Open Access March 2, 2024

Optical-related properties and characterization of some textile fibers using near-infrared spectroscopy

Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, Heba M. Elfowaty

Article number: 20230014

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Abstract

When light falls on the fiber surface, it is absorbed, reflected, or refracted. These three phases of incident light determine, to a great extent, the behavior of lustre of major textile fibers. This article sheds light upon the behavior of some textile fibers, namely, polyethylene terephthalate, cotton, viscose, bamboo, tencel, and modal fibers, in terms of their reflectance percentages in the ultraviolet regions. Also, the direct and indirect band-gap energies of the used textile fibers were also investigated. The findings of this study revealed the significant differences among these used textile fibers in relation to their optical properties. Also, the chemical composition of the used textile fibers was easily identified using near-infrared spectroscopy. Finally, the findings of this study revealed that the used textile fibers are considered good insulators.

Open Access March 4, 2024

Network modeling of aesthetic effect for Chinese Yue Opera costume simulation images

Han Yanna, Jiang Yicheng, Zheng Xia

Article number: 20230015

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Abstract

In the digital age, virtual simulation images have become an important communication form of Chinese traditional Yue Opera costumes and their culture. Focusing on the lay viewers’ aesthetic experience, we collected 16 subjective evaluations, including favorites of basic design elements, semantic impressions, and high-level aesthetic experience, of 257 participants on 5 virtual simulation pictures of Yue Opera costumes for different characters and used network analysis to explore the possible relationship of the variables. The inferred networks showed that the archetypal aesthetic was more relevant to the costume design elements, emotions, interests, and the sense of high level. The conspicuous clothing, understanding of creative intent, and the desire for cultural knowledge were key “bridges” in the aesthetic process. Although the aesthetic network of each costume varied partially based on character differences, it showed more similarities overall. On the basis of the findings, we discuss the possible theoretical basis of the networks and make practical suggestions for the virtual dissemination of Yue Opera costumes.

Open Access March 14, 2024

Predicting consumers’ garment fit satisfactions by using machine learning

Evrim Buyukaslan Oosterom, Fatma Baytar, Deniz Akdemir, Fatma Kalaoglu

Article number: 20230016

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Abstract

The objectives of this study were to apply alternative machine learning (ML) algorithms to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions (real fit satisfaction [RFS]) and compare the efficiencies of these algorithms to predict RFS. Skirts made from different fabrics were used as test garments. Mechanical properties of the skirts’ fabrics were assigned as predictor variables to estimate RFS. Study participants’ virtual body models were created by using 3D body scanner and used for virtual fitting. Each participant physically tried on the skirts and evaluated the fit. Participants also viewed the skirt simulations on their avatars and evaluated the virtual fit, which represented participants’ virtual fit satisfactions (VFS). Random Forest (RF), support vector machine (SVM), and conditional tree (CT) algorithms were used to learn from the data to predict participants’ RFSs. The mean correlations between the predicted and observed RFS values in the validation sets were 0.74 (RF), 0.70 (SVM-linear kernel), 0.72 (SVM-radial kernel), and 0.55 (CT). According to the variable importance analysis, VFS had the highest importance among 35 predictor variables. ML is used mostly for sales forecasting and manufacturing purposes in the fashion industry. However, garment fit, which restrains consumers from shopping online, did not get enough attention in ML studies. Besides, the ML algorithms used in fashion and apparel studies are often genetic algorithms and neural networks; therefore, there is a need to test other algorithm types. In this study, we offered alternative ML algorithms (i.e., RF, SVM, and CT) to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions.

Open Access March 18, 2024

Non-destructive identification of wool and cashmere fibers based on improved LDA using NIR spectroscopy

Xin Chen, Qingle Lan, Yaolin Zhu

Article number: 20230017

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Abstract

With the advancement of near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and chemometrics technology, non-destructive qualitative testing has been widely applied in many fields. Both wool and cashmere are keratin protein fibers with many similarities in tissue structure, making it very difficult to distinguish between them. In order to achieve rapid and non-destructive identification of wool and cashmere, an improved linear discriminant analysis (ILDA) algorithm combined with NIR spectroscopy technology is proposed. The proposed method can also be used for the classification of extremely similar fibers and substances, with better classification performance. First, the spectral data of wool and cashmere are collected using an NIR spectrometer so as to reduce the influence of noise in the spectra; data preprocessing methods are used to correct the collected fiber spectra. Then, principal component analysis (PCA), linear discriminant analysis (LDA), and ILDA are used to extract the characteristic variables from the spectral data. Finally, the extracted characteristic variables are input into the machine learning algorithm K-nearest neighbor (K-NN) classifier. In the experimental stage, three dimensionality reduction methods (PCA, LDA, and ILDA) are evaluated using the K-NN classification model. The fiber classification accuracy can reach 97% when using the ILDA method for dimensionality reduction. The results show that the proposed method is effective for the qualitative detection of different types of wool and cashmere fibers.

Open Access March 18, 2024

Study on the relationship between structure and moisturizing performance of seamless knitted fabrics of protein fibers for autumn and winter

Yiru Hu, Zimin Jin, Qiuyu Wang, Chengxiao Fang, Yuqiang Sun, Xiaofeng Wen

Article number: 20230018

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Abstract

With dry weather and low humidity in autumn and winter, human skin is usually prone to dryness, even leading to itchy skin and other problems, so it is important to do a good job of skin moisturizing. The fabrics produced by using protein fiber have a certain moisturizing effect on human skin. Five types of yarn including collagen fiber, cheese protein fiber, silkworm pupa protein fiber, cashmere protein fiber, and viscose are chosen as veil materials, while nylon/spandex composite fiber is chosen as inner yarn material. Three fabric structures including the weft plain stitch, 1 + 1 mock rib, and 1 + 3 mock rib are selected for the study. Based on the full factorial experimental design method, 15 samples of seamless knitted fabrics are produced using a circular knitting machine. In order to investigate the effects of different veil materials and fabric structure of seamless knitted fabric on skin moisturizing performance, the skin moisture content test and the trans-epidermal water loss test were carried out before and after the fabric samples were wrapped around the skin of 20 participants. The results show that both the veil materials and the fabric structure have significant effects on the skin moisture content. The use of collagen yarn as the veil material and 1 + 1 mock rib as the fabric structure results in better moisturizing effects on human skin. In terms of the trans-epidermal water loss test, the fabric structure has significant effects on the results, while the veil material has no significant effect on it. However, the value of trans-epidermal water loss of the fabric with protein yarn is smaller than that of the fabric with ordinary viscose. Therefore, using cheese protein yarn as the veil material and 1 + 1 mock rib as the fabric structure results in a smaller trans-epidermal water loss value.

Open Access March 22, 2024

Antibacterial and yellowing performances of sports underwear fabric with polyamide/silver ion polyurethane filaments

Tingting Zhu, Ailan Wan

Article number: 20230020

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Abstract

To develop antibacterial durability and low yellowing of sports underwear fabric, silver ion polyurethane filaments (Ag + PUFs) were used as base yarn, and polyamide filaments were used as face yarn. Nine fabric samples with different Ag + PUF contents (7, 8, 9, 17, 18, and 19%) were prepared. The fabrics were dyed in light, medium, and dark pink. Ag + PUF was characterized by scanning electron microscopes for the morphology. Antibacterial properties and mechanical properties of Ag + PUF were measured. The antibacterial durability, yellowing, elastic recovery, air, and moisture permeability were tested, and fuzzy mathematics was used for comprehensive evaluation. The results demonstrated that Ag + PUF has good antibacterial properties and mechanical properties. The inhibition rates of the fabric against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 100%. When Ag + PUF content was 18 and 19%, the antibacterial rates of medium pink fabrics both E. coli and S. aureus were 100% after laundering 30 times. The yellowing of the fabric before dyeing was the lowest when Ag + PUF content was 7%. Compared with before dyeing, the yellowing of the fabric decreased by 19.13 % after dyeing. The comprehensive performance of 3# fabric is the best, and it has antibacterial persistence and low yellowing.

Open Access April 2, 2024

Numerical and experimental analysis of ballistic performance in hybrid soft armours composed of para-aramid triaxial and biaxial woven fabrics

Justyna Pinkos, Zbigniew Stempien, Magdalena Małkowska

Article number: 20230022

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Abstract

This article presents the results of numerical and experimental research on the ballistic performance of soft packages composed of biaxial and triaxial fabrics in various hybrid configurations. The main objective of these studies was to prove the hypothesis that a hybrid package composed of biaxial fabrics, on the impact side of a projectile, and triaxial fabrics, on the backside, exhibits greater ballistic efficiency than a package entirely composed of biaxial or triaxial fabrics. The research was conducted by shooting packages consisting of 30 layers of fabrics using a Parabellum 9 × 19 full metal jacket projectile, with a striking velocity of 380 m/s, after placing the packages on a Roma No.1 plasticine substrate. The analysis involved the deformation depth of the plasticine substrate and the perforation ratio of the packages. Optimisation studies revealed that the optimal package configuration should consist of 9 layers of biaxial fabrics on the projectile impact side and 21 layers of triaxial fabrics on the backside, indicating a biaxial to triaxial fabric ratio of approximately 1:3.

Open Access April 8, 2024

Phonetic smart clothing design based on gender awareness education for preschoolers

Chenchen Tu, Li Niu, Rongrong Cui, Kaixuan Liu

Article number: 20230021

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Abstract

Given problems such as the late start of gender awareness education in China, the gender blurring in preschooler’s clothing, the lack of integrating gender awareness elements into preschooler’s clothing, etc., using children’s sensory functions such as vision, touch, and hearing, a phonetic intelligence module with alarm sounds and warning words is implanted into special parts of children’s clothing. When children gently touch the part, it can make a sound. This kind of smart clothing for preschoolers, which is both interesting and educational, enables children to understand gender knowledge more intuitively, have a certain gender awareness to better protect their private parts of the body, and develop a correct view of gender roles and a sound personality.

Open Access April 13, 2024

Determination of anthropometric measurements and their application in the development of clothing sizing systems for women in the regions of the Republic of Croatia

Ksenija Doležal, Blaženka Brlobašić Šajatović

Article number: 20230019

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Abstract

The aim of this article is to determine the differences in the physical dimensions of the female body that form the basis of the clothing size system and compare their deviations within the three regions of the Republic of Croatia. Due to the changes in the dimensions and shape of the human body, there is a need to adjust clothing in order to achieve the best possible fit. A systematic consideration of the fit of clothing includes investigation of a number of elements and factors, especially those based on anthropometric knowledge. The results of anthropometric measurements performed on a representative sample determine the body dimensions of the measured population. By sorting and grouping the data of body measurements, clothing sizes are created, with significant differences in body shape and body proportions of individual population groups. In the clothing size system, individual body dimensions define the clothing size and form a scale determined by a norm that prescribes body shape based on two dimensions of girths, where the measurement of bust girth is the basic measurement, and the body height is the dependent variable. This research was carried out on a sample of 940 women from the region of Slavonia, 1,109 women from the region of Dalmatia, and 799 women from the City of Zagreb, classified into seven age groups. The statistical processing of the results, i.e., the method of principal components, the values of the observed body measurements, and the representation of certain categories of bust girth and body size in the measured population of each region were determined.

Open Access April 17, 2024

Research on optimal design of pleated cheongsam based on Kano–HOQ–Pugh model

Runtian Jiang, Peng Jin, Xubing Xu

Article number: 20230025

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Abstract

As a kind of dress combining traditional and modern design, pleated cheongsam is becoming increasingly popular among Chinese users. However, the current design of pleated cheongsam has the problem of mismatch with users’ modern aesthetics and demands, which causes serious homogenization of pleated cheongsam and low sales volume. Therefore, the optimal design of pleated cheongsam was discussed from three aspects:consumer demands, design features, and comprehensive evaluation. The Kano model was used to sort out 12 user demands in three aspects: functionality, usability, and emotion. The House Of Quality (HOQ) method was used to establish the mapping matrix of “user demand-design requirement,” and the priority of 11 design requirements was determined. Finally, the best optimization proposal was screened and evaluated by the Pugh matrix and the live streaming data of pleated cheongsam brand. The experimental results demonstrate that the Kano–HOQ–Pugh model provides a scientific and engineered attribute framework for improving the acceptability and attractiveness of pleated cheongsam and provides a theoretical basis for brands to develop pleated cheongsams with ethnicity, modernity, and differentiation.

Open Access April 23, 2024

Numerical investigation of weaving machine heald shaft new design using composite material to improve its performance

Mohamed Hassan, Ayman Mostafa, Affaf Al-Oufy, Sherwet El-Gholmy

Article number: 20230026

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Abstract

The factors of increasing productivity, reducing the cost, and the quality improvement are the most important research concerns in weaving machinery. Increasing the effectiveness and productivity of production was achieved by increasing the operating time and efficiency of weaving looms. Thus, manufacturers of weaving equipment attempt to minimize factors that limit the production speed and production conditions. The heald frame is one of the most important parts of the weaving machine that causes vibrations and noise, which are important factors that influence the high-speed development of looms and decrease their performance. In this work, mechanical factors such as stresses and vibrations were studied for the weaving machine heald frame made from composite materials. The finite element models were constructed using the ABAQUS program for the traditional heald frame made from aluminum as well as for the heald frame made from composite materials. The models were simulated using the operating system conditions of constraints and of applied loads. The composite materials used are carbon fibers and glass fibers. The mode shapes of the models as well as the generated stresses were presented. The results showed a significant improvement in use of the composite materials that can reduce the frame vibration and withstand the generated stresses.

Open Access April 26, 2024

Corrigendum to “Use of enzymatic processes in the tanning of leather materials”

Magdalena Lasoń-Rydel, Katarzyna Sieczyńska, Dorota Gendaszewska, Katarzyna Ławińska, Tomasz P. Olejnik

Article number: 20230024

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Open Access April 29, 2024

Shaping of thermal protective properties of basalt fabric-based composites by direct surface modification using magnetron sputtering technique

Pamela Miśkiewicz, Magdalena Tokarska

Article number: 20230029

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Abstract

A direct modification of the surface of the basalt fabric was carried out by using magnetron sputtering to obtain composites intended for effective protection against contact and radiant heat. One-layer composite with a coating of aluminum (Al) and zirconium dioxide (ZrO 2 ), two-layer composite with a coating of Al/ZrO 2 , and two-layer composite with a coating of Al/(ZrO 2 + titanium dioxide [TiO 2 ]) were deposited on the fabric surface. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy analysis was used to assess the coating on basalt fabrics and determine their chemical composition. Parameters such as thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to radiant heat, and resistance to contact heat for a contact temperature of 250°C were determined for assessment of the composites from the point of view of protective properties. The similarity analysis of composites was performed to state the impact of coating components’ content and coating thickness on chosen parameters. It was found that a two-layer composite in which the outer layer is Al and the inner layer is a mixture of ZrO 2 and TiO 2 provides good thermal insulation properties. The composites capable of protecting against contact heat at the first efficiency level and against radiant heat at the second efficiency level were obtained.

Open Access April 29, 2024

Numerical modeling of the heat flow component of the composite developed on the basis of basalt fabric

Pamela Miśkiewicz, Agnieszka Cichocka

Article number: 20230030

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Abstract

Numerical simulation basic steps are making a model and recreating the course of the examined process. The article presents numerical modeling of the component of heat flow through a composite developed on the basis of basalt fabric. The composite consisted of the following components: basalt fabric, modified with a composite coating consisting of 1 µm thick aluminum with a mixture of 1 µm zirconia and titanium dioxide, silicone, and Mylar® film modified with the same coating as the basalt fabric. Numerical modeling was performed using the ANSYS 2022 R1 program. The performed numerical simulations of the temperature gradient represented the contact heat resistance test for the contact temperature of 250°C for the basalt fabric and the composite. The proposed model reproduced the exact course and results of the actual study. Each of the layers making up the composite had a thickness and was mapped in accordance with the physical model.

Open Access May 7, 2024

Weft insertion guideway design based on high-temperature superconducting levitation

Chengjun Zhang, Yue Liu, Yi Peng, Yi Wang, Chengyuan Li, Xiaoyan Zuo, Chuqiao Xu, Xiangyang Zhou

Article number: 20230027

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Abstract

Wide-width weaving machines typically employ the method of increasing the shuttle’s initial speed to achieve a broader weft insertion. However, this approach not only leads to issues such as significant equipment vibrations, high noise levels, increased energy consumption, and reduced lifespan but also has limitations in achieving substantial increases in the fabric width. The article proposes a wide-width weft insertion method based on high-temperature superconducting magnetic levitation technology. It utilizes the levitation characteristics of high-temperature superconducting shuttles in a permanent magnet array’s magnetic field to levitate the shuttle. The shuttle is then propelled by a traveling wave magnetic field generated by an array of electromagnetic coils, enabling wide-width weft insertion. Based on the required thrust values and weaving speed for the shuttle insertion process, the structural parameters of the weft insertion guideway were calculated. A superconducting suspended weft insertion structure was designed, and a mathematical model between the weft insertion guideway and the shuttle was established. Subsequently, a simulation model of the weft insertion guideway was created using Simulink, and the model was simulated, verified, and analyzed using the field-oriented control algorithm. The simulation results indicate that the operating speed of the levitated shuttle and the driving force for weft insertion meet the requirements for high-speed wide-width weaving.

Open Access May 11, 2024

Ultrasonic-assisted alkali hydrolysis of polyethylene terephthalate fabric and its effect on the microstructure and dyeing properties of fibers

Sihui Pan, Hongfei Qian

Article number: 20230031

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Abstract

In this study, ultrasound energy was applied to assist the alkali hydrolysis of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fabric, and then, the results were compared with those of the mechanical oscillating method, which was used as the control. The effects of various factors such as the sodium hydroxide concentration, the dosage of dodecyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride (DDBAC), and the frequency on the weight loss of the PET fabrics were systematically investigated. The surface appearance and microstructures of the treated fibers with different methods were analyzed using a scanning electron microscope and X-ray diffraction, respectively. The results showed that DDBAC played a prominent accelerating role in the hydrolysis of the PET polymer, and the frequency had a great influence on the weight loss of the PET fabric. Ultrasound with a frequency of 60 kHz showed a similar decomposition rate as the control, resulting in similar weight loss, which was the highest value among the three frequencies (20, 60, and 80 kHz). In addition, the application of ultrasonic energy led to more pits on the fiber surface, a smaller average grain size, and decreased crystallinity of the treated fibers, while the mechanical oscillating method resulted in slightly increased crystallinity. By comparing the K/S value of the dyed fabrics with two commercial disperse dyes, we found that the treatment method had no obvious correlation with the color depth of the treated fabric.

(Deutsch)

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Type: Journal
Language: English
Publisher: De Gruyter Open Access
First published: October 19, 2012
Publication Frequency: 4 Issues per Year